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TEA; 


Its  Origin,  Cultivation,  Manufacture  and  Use. 


By  I.  L.  HAUSER, 

BAREILLY,  INDIA. 


PRICE  TT W ENT Y- RIVE  CENX& 


CHICAGO  AND  NEW  YORK: 

Rand,  McNally  Company,  Publishers. 


1 890. 


Copyright,  18S9. 
By  I.  B.  HAUSB;R. 


6 ^ . b 1 

H 1 


TBA. 


EA  is  the  dried  leaves  of  an  evergreen  shrub,  camellia  theifera  and 


called  chha  by  the  Chinese  and  natives  of  India.  The  following  account 
of  its  origin  is  given  in  the  History  of  Japan,”  by  Kaempfer,  who  went  as 
Dutch  embassy  to  Japan  in  1691,  The  work  was 'translated  into  English 


in  1727  : 


ORIGIN  OF  TEA. 


“ The  tea  plant  is  considered  by  the  Japanese  to  represent  the  eyebrows  of 
Dhurma,  an  ancient  saint  among  the  heathens.  It  will  not  be  improper  here 
to  insert  the  history  of  this  man,  not  only  as  it  is  pleasant  and  singular  in  its 
kind,  but  chiefly  as  it  serves  to  ascertain  the  time  when,  according  to  the  Jap- 
anese, this  plant  first  came  into  use.  Dhurma  was  the  third  son  of  Kasiumo, 
an  Indian  king.  He  was  a holy  and  religious  person,  as  it  were  a pope  in  the 
Indies,  and  the  eighth  and  twentieth  successor  of  the  Holy  See  of  Siaka,  the 
founder  of  the  eastern  Paganism,  who  was  an  Indian  himself  and  a negro,  born 
1,028  years  before  our  Saviour’s  nativity.  About  the  year  of  Christ  519  this 
Dhurma  came  into  China.  His  design  was  to  bring  the  inhabitants  of  that 
populous  empire  to  the  knowledge  of  God,  and  to  preach  his  gospel  to  them 
as  the  true  and  only  one  that  would  lead  them  to  salvation.  Nor  was  it  only 
with  his  doctrine  that  he  endeavored  to  make  himself  useful  to  men  and 
acceptable  unto  God.  He  went  still  further  and  strove  for  divine  grace  by 
leading  an  austere  and  exemplary  life,  exposing  himself  to  all  the  injuries  of 
the  weather,  chastising  and  mortifying  his  body,  and  subduing  the  passions  of 
his  mind.  He  lived  only  upon  vegetables,  and  thought  this  to  be  the  highest 


4 


degree  of  holiness  to  pass  days  and  nights  in  an  uninterrupted  satori — that  is, 
a contemplation  of  the  Divine  Being.  To  deny  all  manner  of  rest  and 
relaxation  to  the  body,  and  to  consecrate  the  mind  entirely  and  without 
intermission  to  God,  was  what  he  took  to  be  sincerest  repentance  and  the 
most  eminent  degree  of  perfection  human  nature  could  attain  to.  After  a 
continued  waking  of  many  years  he  at  last  grew  so  weary  of  his  fatigues  and 
fastings  that  he  fell  asleep.  Awakening  next  morning  and  with  sorrow 
remembering  that  he  had  broken  his  vow,  he  resolved  to  take  to  severe  repent- 
ance, and  in  the  first  place,  lest  the  like  accident  should  happen  to  hiim  here- 
after, he  cut  off  both  his  eyebrows  as  the  instruments  and  ministers  of  his 
crime  and  then  threw  them  upon  the  ground.  Returning  next  day  to,  the 
place  where  he  had  done  this  execution,  he  observed  that  by  a wonderful 
change  each  eyebrow  was  become  a shrub,  and  the  one  which  is  now  called 
tea,  whose  virtues  and  use  were  then  as  yet  unknown  to  the  world,  no 
more  than  the  plant  itself.  Dhurma,  eating  of  the  leaves  of  the  plant, 
found  with  surprise  an  uncommon  joy  and  gladness  to  fill  his  heart  and  his 
mind  endowed  with  new  strength  to  pursue  his  divine  meditations.  This 
uncommon  event  and  the  excellent  virtues  of  the  leaves  of  the  tea  he  forth- 
with discovered  to  the  multitudes  of  his  disciples,  together  with  the  way  of 
using  them.  If  the  leaves  were  to  be  taken  fresh  they  would  affect  the  head 
very  much,  having  something  narcotic  in  them  which  intoxicates  the  animal 
spirits  and  occasions  a trembling,  convulsive  motion  in  the  nerves.  This 
inebriating  quality  they  lose  by  being  dried,  and  there  remains  only  a virtue  of 
gently  refreshing  the  animal  spirit.  This  ill  quality  is  taken  off  in  a good 
measure  by  a repeated  and  gradual  roasting,  though  not  quite  so  effectually 
but  that  some  of  it  still  remains  which  will  affect  the  head,  and  which  they 
cannot  be  deprived  of  but  by  degrees  in  ten  months’  time  or  more.  The  best 
and  most  delicate  tea  which  possesses  its  most  refreshing  quality  in  the  most 
eminent  degree  must  be  at  least  a year  old.  It  is  never  drank  fresher  unless 
it  be  mixed  with  an  equal  amount  of  an  older  sort.  * * * I believe  there  is  no 
plant  as  yet  known  in  the  world  whose  infusion  or  decoction,  taken  so  plenti- 
fully as  that  of  tea  in  Japan,  sits  so  easy  upon  the  stomach,  passes  so  quickly 
through  the  body,  so  gently  refreshes  the  drooping  animal  spirits  or  recreates 
the  mind. 


Xfxeii:  i^QO: 


5 


‘‘  Emperor's  tea  is  grown  at  Udsi,  on  the  sea  coast.  The  grounds  are  swept 
every  day  and  secluded  from  intruders.  Pickers  abstain  from  coarse  food  for 
three  weeks  previous  to  picking  lest  they  should  have  bad  breaths,  bathe 
twice  a day  and  do  not  pick  with  bare  hands,  but  gloved.  Dried  tea,  put  up 
in  paper  bags,  then  in  porcelain  jars  nearly  filled  with  common  tea,  costs 
from  forty-two  to  fifty-six  crowns  a pound.  1 remember  that  one  of  the  gen- 
tlemen at  court  presented  me  with  a dish  of  tea  with  the  following  compli- 
ment; ‘ Drink  heartily  and  with  pleasure,  for  one  dish  costs  one  itzebo^  a 
square  gold  coin,  worth  about  twelve  or  thirteen  English  shillings.” 

Thus  ends  the  ancient  chronicler’s  narrative,  which  could  not  well  be  con- 
densed and  be  a full  account  of  the  origin  of  tea,  so  1 have  been  liberal  in 
quotation. 

It  was  well,  since  silk  worms’  eggs,  concealed  in  bamboo  canes,  were  taken 
from  China  by  missionaries  and  introduced  into  Europe,  that  a missionary" 
from  the  West  should  take  tea  seed  with  him  into  China  and  Japan,  even  if  it 
did  cost  him  his  eyebrows. 

Tea  trees  were  discovered  in  the  forests  of  Assam,  about  the  yqar  1826.  As 
this  is  the  only  place  in  the  world  where  tea  has  been  found  indigenous,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  some  Dhurma  from  India  did  carry  tea  seed  with  him  as 
he  went  eastward  on  his  mission. 

VARIETIES  OF  TEA  PLANT  AND  OF  ITS,  PRODUCT. 

There  is  only  one  true  tea  plant,  botanically,  and  that  is  called  camellia 
theifcra,  and  it  is  now  generally  conceded  that  the  China  plant  was  from 
Assam  seed  and  became  dwarfed  by  a less  congenial  climate.  Indigenous 
plants  or  trees  are  found  in  the  forests  of  Assam  with  a diameter  of  eight  and 
twelve  inches  and  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  high,  while  the  China  variety  will 
not  grow  higher  than  eight  feet.  That  of  Assam  has  one  stem  and  its  branches 
are  one  foot  from  the  ground,  while  that  of  China  has  numerous  stems  after 
the  second  year,  and  its  branches  are  close  to  the  grouiid.  The  leaves  of  the 
Assam  variety  will  grow  to  a length  of  ten  inches,  while  those  of  China  never 
more  than  five.  The  color  of  the  former  is  a pale  light  green,  of  the  latter,  a 
dull  dark  green.  The  Assam  gives  more  flushes,  that  is,  growths  of  tender 
leaf.  The  China  is  the  more  hardy,  much  easier  to  raise,  and  will  grow  where 


6 


the  indigenous  will  not.  The  two  plants  have  been  mixed  by  the  inoculation 
of  the  pollen  of  the  one  with  flowers  of  the  other,  and  the  results  are  called 
“ hybrids.”  This  process  has  been  so  often  repeated  that  there  are  now  over 
a hundred  varieties  of  the  tea  plant.  The  original  indigenous  is  a better  plant, 
but  does  not  thrive  so  well  in  a garden.  The  best  qualities  of  black  teas  are 
made  from  indigenous  and  high  class  hybrids,  the  nearer  the  indigenous  the 
better.  The  introduction  of  the  Chinese  plant  into  India  is  now  considered  a 
misfortune,  as  the  indigenous  produces  a much  more  desirable  tea.  The 
leaves  of  the  indigenous  are  of  a much  finer  and  softer  texture  than  those  of 
China;  the  former  may  be  compared  to  satin,  the  latter  to  leather. 

The  ordinary  tea  plants,  hybrids,  if  not  cut  down  would  grow  to  eight  or  ten 
feet  high,  with  several  upright  branches  containing  but  a few  leaves,  or  be  but 
a straggling  bush.  I had  once  near  my  house  on  a tea  plantation  a plant  that 
had  never  been  pruned.  It  was  about  ten  feet  high  with  several  upright 
branches  projecting  from  the  stem  about  two  feet  from  the  ground,  and  had 
but  few  leaves.  When  cultivated  for  leaf  the  shrub  is  kept  pruned  three  to 
four  feet  high,  and  the  bush  two  to  three  feet  in  diameter,  becomes  a mass  of 
branches  and  leaves,  making  a beautiful  as  well  as  a 
useful  ornament. 

The  shrub  will  live  for  thirty  to  forty  years,  but  will 
not  be  very  productive  of  leaf  after  twenty  years.  The 
stem  of  an  old  shrub  is  several  inches  in  diameter  near 
the  ground,  and  has  a large  tap  root  that  will  go  down 
to  a depth  of  six  feet  when  not  obstructed. 

The  full  grown  leaves  are  of  a glossy  green  color, 
from  two  to  five  inches  in  length,  of  elliptical-oblong 
shape,  and  about  an  inch  in  width  at  the  center,  ser- 
rated and  marked  with  transverse  veins,  but  diflering 
from  other  leaves  in  this,  that  the  veins  do  not  go  to 
the  edge  of  the  leaf,  but  turn  and  form  a loop  with  the 
next  vein,  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  This  is  a pecu- 
liarity characteristic  of  the  tea  leaf.  The  old  leaves  on 
the  plant  are  not  picked,  as  they  would  be  worthless  for 
tea,  and  plucking  them  would  injure  or  kill  the  shrub. 


7 


The  flowers  are  slightly  odorous  and  of  a pure  white  color.  They  are  usually 
solitary  or  at  the  most  two  or  three  together  on  separate  pedicles,  at  the  axils 
of  the  leaves.  When  leaf  only  is  desired,  and  not  seed,  the  flowers  are  picked 
as  soon  as  they  appear  in  the  autumn,  and  thrown  away.  The  seed  takes 
nearly  a year  to  ripen.  It  is  enclosed  in  a brown  shell,  looking  like  a hazel 
nut,  and  when  on  the  shrub  is  encased,  one  to  four  of  them,  in  a bulb  like 
that  of  a hickory  nut.  When  ripe  the  capsule  opens  and  the  nuts  drop  out. 
The  seeds  are  bitter  and  astringent.  A fine  lubricating  oil  can  be  made  from 
them. 

Soil,  climate  and  cultivation  make  a great  difference  in  the  varieties  of  the 
plants  and  in  the  product,  as  they  do  in  varieties  of  fruit  and  grain.  Peaches 
and  grapes  show  very  distinctly  this  difference.  A potato  raised  on  a sandy 
soil  is  altogether  another  article  from  that  of  the  same  kind  of  seed  grown 
rankly  in  a muddy  bottom. 

The  planters  have  each  their  own  methods  of  curing.  One  will  take  the 
greatest  care  and  observe  the  exact  time  for  each  process,  while  another  will 
be  ignorant  or  indifferent,  and  the  results  are  what  might  be  expected.  One 
skilled  in  testing  teas  can  tell  not  only  the  country  but  the  district,  and  even 
the  plantation  on  which  a particular  tea  is  produced,  and  he  can  distinguish 
the  teas  of  two  plantations  lying  side  by  side,  prepared  by  different  managers, 
though  both  the  teas  may  be  pure  and  of  excellent  quality.  I have  often 
been  asked,  ‘‘  How  is  it  that  so  many  kinds  of  tea  can  be  made  from  the 
same  plant  ?”  and  my  answer  has  been,  ‘‘  How  can  there  be  so  many  kinds  of 
butter  made  from  cow’s  milk  ?” 

THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  TEA  PLANT. 

It  is  supposed  that  the  tea  plant  can  be  growm  only  in  tropical  countries. 
This  is  not  the  case,  as  there  are  thriving  plantations  in  climates  and  at  alti- 
tudes where  for  a short  season  the  shrubs  are  covered  with  snow,  but  the  hot, 
moist  climate  and  rich  soil  of  Assam  are  nearly  perfect  for  tea  growing. 
This  is  particularly  so  in  respect  to  the  growth  of  the  plant  and  supply  of  leaf, 
but  the  Assam  teas  do  not  have  the  delicate  fragrance  of  those  grown  in  the 
dryer  atmosphere  of  the  more  northern  Himalayas.  The  tea  grown  in  tem- 
perate climates  is  more  delicate  in  flavor,  while  that  grown  in  hot  climates 


8 


has  more  body.  Tea  requires  a good  soil  and  to  be  well  tilled.  The  seeds  are 
usually  sown  thickly  in  a nursery  where  the  young  plants  remain  for  about 
nine  months.  They  arc  then  transplanted  in  rows  about  four  feet  apart  each 
way.  The  ground  is  kept  clean  of  grass  and  weeds  and  well  manured.  In 
the  Himalayas  the  plantations  are  usually  on  the  terraced  mountain  sides,  and 
as  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  soil  receive  and  retain  as  much  water  as  possible, 
it  is  dug  deeply  with  hoes  and  left  very  loose.  Leaf  can  be  picked  after 
three  or  four  years’  growth  of  the  shrub.  If  done  sooner  the  growth  of  the 
branches  would  be  retarded.  Pruning  is  done  annually,  during  the  winter 
season  when  the  sap  is  down,  with  large  shears,  to  increase  the  number  of 
branches,  the  quantity  of  leaves,  and  to  keep  the  shrub  a convenient  size  for 
gathering  the  leaves.  Sometimes  the  seeds  are  planted  in  sifn,  or  at 
“ stake,”  as  it  is  called,  as  stakes  are  placed  to  indicate  where  the  trees  are  to 
be,  and  the  seeds  are  sown  near  them. 

THE  PLANTATIONS. 

These  consist  of  from  fifty  to  one  thousand  acres  each.  In  a convenient  spot 
is  the  manager’s  bungalow  surrounded  by  fruit  trees  and  flowers,  with  paths 
leading  from  it  to  all  parts  of  the  plantation,  a delightful  place  of  residence, 
especially  as  the  plantations  in  the  Himalayas  are  in  the  finest  climate  of  the 
world;  but  there  is  this  drawback,  that  the  planter  sometimes  for  months  sees 
no  one  but  his  own  family  and  laborers.  Not  far  from  the  bungalow  are  the 
godo7uns,  or  houses  for  curing,  drying,  boxing  and  storing  the  tea.  Not  far 
from  the  plantation  are  the  villages  of  the  laborers.  It  requires  one  laborer 
for  every  planted  acre,  besides  those  employed  in  the  factory.  When  there 
are  no  flushes,  the  laborers  are  employed  in  digging  the  ground,  making  new 
terraces,  repairing  the  old  ones,  carrying  manure  and  carrying  the  tea  to  the 
nearest  railway  station,  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  distant.  In  the  Hima- 
layas all  carrying  is  done  on  the  backs  or  heads  of  natives.  During  this  rest 
season,  wood  is  procured  for  boxes  and  charcoal,  boxes  are  made,  buildings 
repaired  or  erected,  and  everything  got  ready  for  picking. 


/ 


PICKING  TEA  LEAF 


9 


THE  HARVEST  TIME. 

This  begins  in  April,  ending  in  October  or  November,  and  the  number  of 
flushes,  on  which  the  total  of  the  crop  depends,  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  during 
the  season.  The  pickers  have  each  a small  basket  and  take  the  plants  by 
rows,  each  scjuad  of  about  twenty-five  being  in  charge  of  a head  man. 
Before  going  out  in  the  morning  they  receive  an  order  to  pick  a certain  kind 
of  leaf.  Carriers  with  baskets  on  their  backs,  take  the  leaf  from  the  baskets 
of  the  pickers  and  carry  it  to  the  godown.  The  leaf  is  thrown  in  a pile  in  a 
corner  of  the  curing  house  and  looks  like  a mass  of  young  wintergreen  leaves. 
The  curing  begins  in  time  to  use  all  the  leaf  gathered  during  the  day. 

Leaves  until  rolled,  are  called  Leaf;  after  rolling,  until  dried.  Roll;  when 
dried.  Tea.  The  infusion  is  called  Liquor,  and  the  drawn  leaves.  Outturn. 

METHODS  OF  MANUFACTURE. 

On  a plantation  where  I resided  some  time,  the  following  method  was 
employed:  Twenty  cast  iron  bowls,  each  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  were 
placed  in  a row  on  brickwork  about  two  feet  high  irom  the  floor;  under  the 
first  bowl  only  was  there  a fire.  When  all  was  ready  a man  took  his  place  at 
each  bowl.  One  with  a basket  threw  several  pounds  of  leaf  into  the  heated 
bowl,  the  leaf  was  briskly  whirled  round  the  bowl  until  thoroughly  wilted, 
which  took  about  half  a minute,  when,  by  a twirl  of  the  hand,  it  was  thrown 
into  the  next  bowl,  and  so  on  down  the  row,  each  man  rolling  the  leaf  around 
his  bowl  with  the  palm  of  his  hand.  The  work  continued  until  all  the  leaf 
was  used.  It  was  hot  and  fast  work,  and  only  experienced  men  could  do  it. 
From  the  last  bowl  a man  received  each  batch  of  now  dried  leaf  or  tea  into  a 
basket  with  a wicker  or  open  bottom.  This  basket  he  placed  over  a charcoal 
fire  in  the  floor,  frequently  tossing  the  basket  so  as  to  bring  the  top  leaves 
underneath.  When  thoroughly  heated  the  tea  was  emptied  into  a lead  box 
encased  in  a wood  box  placed  on  a platform  scale  close  by,  weighed,  the  lead 
soldered  up,  the  box  nailed  and  carried  away  to  the  storehouse.  After  the 
picking  season  was  over  the  boxes  were  opened,  the  tea  thrown  into  large, 
shallow  baskets,  all  the  stems  and  red  leaves  removed,  and  the  tea  repacked 
ready  for  the  market.  This  method  was  very  expeditious  and  satisfactory,  as 


lO 


the  best  of  tea  was  produced.  The  principal  operations  in  making  black  tea 
are: 

1st.  Withering  the  leaves.  This  is  done  by  placing  them  in  the  light  of 
the  sun  and  air,  or  over  a gentle  heat  of  fire  or  coiled  steam  pipe. 

2d.  Rolling  the  leaf.  This  liberates  the  juice  in  the  leaves  and  hastens  the 
process.  In  India  the  Juice  is  left  to  be  absorbed  by  the  leaves,  while  in 
China  it  is  squeezed  out  and  wasted.  This  accounts  for  the  strength  of  the 
India  teas  over  those  of  China. 

3d.  Oxidation.  After  rolling,  the  leaf  is  allowed  to  remain  in  a warm 
place  for  a short  time  untouched.  A chemical  change  then  takes  place, 
formerly  called  fermentation,  but  latterly  oxidation,  as  a more  appropriate 
term.  Even  the  best  tea  scientists  do  not  explain  what  this  change  is.  It  is 
like  what  takes  place  in  clover  while  it  is  being  dried  for  hay. 

4th.  Firing  or  drying.  Formerly  this  was  done  in  pans  over  a charcoal 
fire,  but  latterly  it  is  found  that  any  dry,  clean  heat  will  do. 

These  operations  are  necessary  everywhere  for  the  manufacture  of  black 
tea,  but  different  planters  have  their  own  methods  of  performing  them,  the 
same  as  different  dairymen  have  their  own  ways  for  the  production  of  butter 
and  cheese.  This  refers  to  the  Anglo-Saxons  in  India,  who  are  constantly 
studying  new  methods  and  processes,  leaving  the  old  ways  when  the  new  are 
better,  and  not  to  the  Chinese  and  Japanese,  who  do  as  their  fathers  did  a 
thousand  years  ago. 

The  old  method  of  hand  work  is  largely  being  done  away  with  in  India,  as 
many  of  the  large  plantations  are  using  machinery.  The  leaf  is  thrown  from 
the  wilting  bowls  into  the  large  hopper  of  a machine  that  rolls  and  dries  the 
tea.  This  is  altogether  preferable  to  hand  work,  as  the  tea  comes  out  as  clean 
as  flour  from  the  best  mill.  With  hand  labor  it  is  otherwise,  especially  in 
China,  as  travelers  in  that  country  who  have  seen  tea  making  there,  declare 
that  no  one  would  think  of  drinking  China  tea  after  seeing  it  made. 

With  a very  few  exceptions  all  the  plantations  in  India  are  owned  and  man- 
aged by  Europeans,  and  each  is  particularly  jealous  of  the  reputation  of  his 
own  plantation.  Everything  is  kept  very  clean,  and  one  passing  through  the 
drying  or  firing  house  need  not  hesitate  any  more  to  take  the  hot  crisp  tea 
from  the  drying  pans,  than  he  would  to  take  grains  of  wheat  and  eat  them 
when  going  through  a flouring  mill  or  grain  elevator. 


PROGRESS  OF  TEA  CULTURE  IN  INDIA. 


An  English  gentleman,  known  throughout  India  and  Great  Britain  for  his 
knowledge  and  interest  in  the  growth  and  manufacture  of  tea,  who  has  written 
several  books  on  the  subject,  and  is  interested  pecuniarily  in  several  planta- 
tions, says:  “ We  have  advanced  greatly  in  the  last  few  years;  but  tea  manu- 
facture, as  regards  economy  in  doing  it,  is  yet  comparatively  in  its  infancy. 
Still  we  have  done  a great  deal  since  the  indigenous  plant  was  discovered  in 
the  jungles  of  Assam,  now  nearly  fifty  years  ago;  we  have  advanced  more  in 
tea  manufacture  than  the  Chinese,  who  have  been  making  tea  for  many  cen- 
turies. That  is  to  say,  I affirm  that  the  India  planter  of  ordinary  intelligence 
knows  more  of  both  tea  cultivation  and  tea  manufacture  to-day  than  any  of 
his  Chinese  contemporaries.  The  Chinaman  grows  tea  and  makes  tea  as  he 
taught  us  to  do  it  twenty  or  thirty  years  ago.  The  pupil  in  this  case  has  cer- 
tainly beat  his  master.  We  have  made  some  improvements  in  tea  planting 
and  tea  cultivation,  but  where  we  have  left  our  teachers  far  behind  is  in  man- 
ufacture. ‘Johnny’  makes  his  tea  as  his  father  made  it  before  him,  taught 
by  his  grandfather,  who  made  it  the  same  way;  and  for  aught  we  know  no 
improvements  in  that  way  have  taken  place  in  the  course  of  many  centuries. 
All  is  hand  labor;  machinery  to  them  is  unknown.  The  most  primitive  ideas 
in  tea  manufacture  are  still  adhered  to.  In  support  of  the  latter  I will  quote 
one  instance:  Tea  from  time  immemorial  has  always  been  dried  by  charcoal 
in  China;  no  other  way  is  known  there  now.  How  is  it  here  in  India?  A 
large  proportion  of  the  produce  is  fired  with  other  fuel,  aided  by  machinery; 
and  it  is  only  a question  of  time  (and  a very  short  time)  when  the  whole  of  it 
will  be  thus  prepared.  I could  quote  other  instances;  let  this  suffice,  for  no 
comparison  can  be  drawn  between  tea  manufacture  as  followed  out  in  China 
and  India  in  this  year  i88i.  The  former  is  as  crude  as  it  was  two  or  five  hun- 
dred years  ago;  the  latter  (though  still  far  from  perfection)  in  its  many  details, 
in  its  numerous  machines  cleverly  contrived  to  save  labor  and  better  the  teas, 
is  a striking  illustration  of  the  activity,  the  energy,  the  inventive  genius  of  the 
Anglo-Saxon  race.” 

“An  Indian  tea  factory,  well  set  up  with  machinery,  that  is  to  say,  with  a 
green-leaf  drying  apparatus,  rolling  machines,  tea  dryers,  equalizers,  and  sift- 
ing and  sorting  machines,  all  driven  by  an  engine  of  15-horse  power,  offer's  a 


2 


wonderful  contrast  to  a Chinese  tea  factory,  where  all  is  handwork.  Ikit 
more  strange  still  is  the  comparison  alongside  of  the  fact,  that  in  the  former 
case,  the  industry  dates  back  only  some  thirty  years,  in  the  latter,  many 
centuries.” 

KINDS  OF  TEA. 

Different  kinds  of  tea  can  be  made  from  the  same  bush,  and  the  real  dif- 
ference in  the  grades  of  pure  tea,  either  black  or  green,  depends  mainly  on 
the  age  of  the  leaf  when  picked.  Those  who  have  strolled  through  the  woods 
in  spring-time  and  picked  wintergreen  leaves,  know  that  the  young  shoots 
are  preferable  to  the  old  woody  leaves;  as  in  making  hay,  the  first  cut  of 
the  tender  grass  is  far  better  than  that  made  from  old  tough  grass.  Tea 
can  be  made  of  young  leaf  only.  The  younger  the  leaf  the  better  the  tea. 

If  the  very  finest  tea  is  desired  the  order  is  given  in  the  morning  to  pick 
only  the  tips  of  the  twigs.  These  are  the  tiny  rolled-up  leaves  or  buds  that 
in  a day  or  two  would  expand  into  several  leaves.  When  this  leaf  is  dried 
it  is  of  a grayish  color,  and  if  closely  examined,  is  covered  with  a hairy 
down  or  fuzz.  I once  showed  this  kind  of  tea  to  a wool  buyer.  He  at  once 
took  out  of  his  vest  pocket  a little  microscope  by  which  he  determined  the 
fineness  of  wool  by  counting  the  number  of  threads  in  a half  inch.  Looking 
at  one  of  the  little  rolled  leaves  he  exclaimed:  “Why,  this  is  just  like  a 
lamb’s  tail  covered  with  hair!”  Another,  a sportsman,  said  it  was  like  a 
fawn’s  leg.  This  tea  has  a mild,  delicate  flavor  and  fragrance,  but  not 
much  body  or  strength.  By  most  people  and  the  best  of  judges,  the  tea 
made  from  two  or  three  leaves  next  the  tip  is  preferred,  as  it  has  the  same 
flavor  but  more  body.  But  little  from  the  tip  is  made,  as  it  would  take 
too  many  tips  for  a pound,  destroy  too  many  embryo  leaves  and  be  too 
expensive  for  the  general  market.  So  on  down  the  twig  to  the  large  old 
tough  leaves,  that  are  used  for  the  coarsest  and  cheapest  grades  of  tea. 

About  all  the  tea  made  in  India  is  black,  as  the  European  dem.and  is 
mainly  for  that  kind.  Black  tea  is  made  by  the  oxidation  of  the  leaves  while 
being  rolled  and  dried;  green  tea  is  made  by  quickly  rolling  and  drying 
before  oxidation  takes  place.  Japan  tea  is  the  leaf  quickly  dried  without 
rolling  and  might  be  called  flat  leaf  green  tea. 


13 


The  ‘‘  Encyclopaedia  Brittanica”  says:  ‘‘  The  color  of  genuine  green  tea  is 
entirely  due  to  the  rapid  drying  of  the  fresh  leaves  which  prevents  the 
chlorophyle  from  undergoing  any  alteration.” 

Chlorophyle  is  the  green  coloring  matter  in  all  plants. 

The  difference  between  black  and  green  tea  lies  in  the  manufacture  and 
nothing  else. 

Mr.  Samuel  Ball,  inspector  of  teas  in  China  for  the  East  India  company, 
says:  ‘‘  The  ease  with  which  starch  is  converted  into  sugar  is  seen  in  the 
process  of  germination  in  the  malting  of  barley;  in  the  ripening  of  certain 
pulpy  fruits;  and  by  the  action  of  acids.  Now  there  is  no  one  substance  so 
universally  diffused  throughout  the  vegetable  economy  as  starch.  * * It  is 

abundant  in  all  the  green  parts  of  plants,  especially  leaves  and  fruit,  so 
long  as  the  functions  of  these  organs  are  required.  Thus  in  hay  it  is 
found  in  the  largest  quantity  just  at  the  period  when  the  seed  is  perfected, 
which  IS  the  cutting  time.  In  unripe  fruits  it  is  found  so  long  as  the 
green  growth  continues;  but  not  a trace  when  ripe.  It  is  transformed  into 
sugar;  and  the  sweetness  of  the  fruit  when  ripe  will  always  be  in  exact  pro- 
portion to  the  quantity  of  starch  it  contains  unripe.  * * This  change  is 
effected  by  the  absorption  of  oxygen  from  the  air,  which  converts  the  starch 
into  sugar.  * * Newly  gathered  leaves  exposed  to  sun  and  air,  soon  begin 
to  suffer  change;  and  all  organic  substances  during  this  state  of  change 
absorb  oxygen  from  the  atmosphere.  The  green  resinous  principle  of  the  leaf 
disappears”  and  in  leaves  containing  tannin,  as  tea  leaves,  ‘‘red  or  brown 
coloring  matters  are  formed;  the  tannic  acid  disappears,  and  is  replaced  by 
sugar.”  Thus  is  the  loss  of  tannin  in  black  tea  accounted  for;  and  the  red 
coloring  matter  of  the  leaf,  as  well  as  the  red  infusion,  ^explained. 

It  is  sometimes  asserted  that  green  tea  cannot  be  made  without  the 
use  of  coloring  matter.  Once  while  enjoying  a delicious  cup  of  tea  with  a 
manager,  a Scotchman,  in  his  bungalow,  I remarked  in  a bantering  way  that 
planters  were  a graceless  set  of  scamps.  “Why!  What  are  you  going  for 
now?”  “Oh,  nothing,  only  that  they  color  their  tea  green  and  send  it  out 
to  poison  the  people.”  He  took  me  in  dead  earnest,  and  going  to  the 
godown  soon  sent  for  me.  On  entering,  he  said:  “ I want  you  to  stand 
there  by  that  pan  and  not  stir  from  it  and  watch  the  process  from  beginning 


14 


to  end  and  see  for  yourself  that  green  tea  can  be  made  without  a particle 
of  coloring  matter.”  A fire  was  burning  under  the  aisl  u'oii  pan.  A man 
threw  a basket  of  fresh  green  leaves,  just  brought  from  the  bushes  for  the 
purpose,  into  the  pan  and  commenced  stirring  and  rolling  the  leaves  around 
the  pan,  first  with  one  hand  and  then  with  the  other,  for  it  was  hot  work,  and 
none  but  a tea  roller  could  have  kept  his  hand  in  that  hot  pan  of  hot 
leaves.  He  used  the  palm  or  ball  of  his  hand  in  rolling  and  not  the  fingers. 
If  a single  leaf  had  stuck  to  the  pan  it  would  have  been  scorched  and  the 
whole  batch  been  spoiled.  In  a few  minutes  there  was  whipped  into  the 
basket  several  pounds  of  as  fine  green  tea  as  one  could  wish,  by  as  simple  a 
process  as  possible  and  without  the  least  coloring  matter.  It  had  the  dull 
green  color  of  young,  tender  new  mown  hay  and  its  fragrance  was  delightful. 
I had  a cup  made  from  it  that  evening,  but  wished  for  many  an  hour  during 
that  long  night  that  the  Scotchman  had  never  shown  me  how  pure  green  tea 
was  made.  I had  rather  take  opium  and  dream  in  a heaven  of  bliss  than  to 
be  frantically  mad  from  drinking  such  a tea.  Though  it  is  absolutely  pure, 
anyone  who  wishes  to  sleep  or  has  any  regard  for  his  life,  would  not  be  a con- 
stant green  tea  drinker.  Nevertheless,  and  notwithstanding  that  the  Scotch- 
man did  show  me  how  pure  green  tea  could  be  made,  there  is  no  doubt  that 
most  of  the  green  tea  is  made  in  another  way.  It  is  cheaper  and  just  as  easy 
to  use  coloring  matter  and  old  tea  grounds. 

Notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  tea  grown  and  the  cheapness  of  the 
ordinary  kinds,  there  is  probably  not  an  article  of  food  or  drink  that  is  so 
badly  adulterated  as  tea. 

Sometimes  tea  is  colored  to  suit  customers.  Once  passing  through  a plan- 
tation owned  by  a Hindu,  the  only  one  I know  of  belonging  to  a native, 
I saw  them  making  tea.  I handled  it  in  the  pan  and  felt  and  saw  that  it  was 
colored.  I asked  why  they  colored  it  and  the  native  manager  replied  that  it 
was  for  the  Bhotias,  Tibetans,  who  would  not  buy  it  unless  it  was  of  such  a 
color,  and  that  they  specially  asked  that  it  should  be  colored.  Powdered 
soapstone  was  thrown  into  the  pan  while  the  tea  was  moist  and  being  rolled. 
The  tea  had  a whitish  gray  appearance  and  a slippery,  greasy  touch.  This 
was  a pure  tea  and  the  coloring  matter  harmless  and  only  put  in  to  please  the 
Bhotias.  For  the  same  reason,  the  Chinese  make  tea  green  to  please  the 


15 


Melican  man,  because  the  American  people  want  it  green,  and  the  greener 
the  better,  so  more  indigo  and  Prussian  blue  is  thrown  into  the  pan.  All 
nonsense  about  the  copper  pan.  A Chinaman  would  never  use  copper,  when 
an  iron  pan  is  so  much  cheaper,  and  coloring  materials  so  plentiful,  besides 
a copper  pan  would  not  do  the  business  ; ‘‘  allee  samee,”  he  would  make 
white  tea,  blue  or  red  tea,  if  ‘‘  Melican  man  likee  so  so.” 

Coloring  with  soapstone  is  but  an  innocent  matter  compared  with  the 
adulterations  made  by  the  heathen  Chinee,  and  the  worse  heathen  in 
Europe  and  America.  Once  at  St.  Paul  I was  told  that  there  was  a man 
from  India  there  in  the  tea  business.  I found  him  in  a large  loft  among  the 
wholesale  houses.  He  was  a Mr.  Jackson,  the  inventor,  with  his  brother,  of 
several  machines  for  rolling  and  drying  tea,  that  are  now  used  in  India.  He 
had  malarial  fever  and  was  obliged  to  leave  India.  He  went  to  San  Fran- 
cisco and  thence  to  Washington,  where  he  met  Mr.  Le  Due,  Commissioner 
of  Agriculture,  who  engaged  him  to  start  a tea  plantation  in  South  Carolina, 
for  the  government.  On  the  commissioner  leaving  office  the  project  was 
given  up,  and  Mr.  Jackson  went  to  St.  Paul.  As  I entered  his  office  and  saw 
no  one,  I went  on  through  an  open  door  into  a large  room,  extending  from  one 
end  of  the  building  to  the  other,  where  I found  him.  He  was  very  reserved, 
and  turned  to  go  out,  as  if  he  did  not  wish  me  to  see  his  business,  but  when 
1 told  him  I was  from  India  he  received  me  very  cordially.  All  through  the 
great  room  were  piles  of  tea  open  on  the  floor.  At  the  farther  end  was  an 
engine  and  a kind  of  fanning-mill.  When  I asked  him  what  he  was  doing, 
he  said,  ‘‘  1 am  cleaning  tea  for  the  merchants,  by  running  it  through  this 
mill,  trying  to  get  out  some  of  the  poison,  and  it  is  killing  me,  breathing  this 
poisonous  dust.  Look  here,”  and  he  drew  his  fingers  across  a shelf,  leaving 
deep  marks  in  the  green  dust.  Everything  was  covered  with  it.  His  face  was 
wan  and  haggard,  and  he  looked  more  fit  for  a hospital  than  for  work.  When 
I asked  him  why  he  did  not  quit  the  business,  he  replied  that  he  knew  nothing 
but  tea,  and  had  to  do  it  for  a living.  A few  months  afterward  I was  again  in 
St.  Paul  and  called  at  his  place,  but  he  had  gone  to  the  hospital.  When  I 
spoke  of  going  to  see  him  1 was  told  that  no  one  was  allowed  to  visit  him.  A 
few  days  after,  meeting  an  undertaker  and  referring  to  India,  he  said  he  had 
just  buried  a Mr.  Jackson  from  that  country;  that  the  man  had  been 


i6 


poisoned  to  death  cleaning  green  tea.  The  people  who  drink  such  tea  take 
the  poison  in  small  quantities  along  with  their  food,  and  work  off  the  effects 
in  a measure,  yet  it  is  poison  and  cannot  be  harmless. 

Various  substances  are  used  in  coloring  and  weighting  tea,  such  as  sub- 
acetate of  copper,  indigo  and  turmeric  mixed  together  to  make  a bright  veg- 
etable green,  sulphate  of  lime  or  gypsum,  to  give  the  tea  a grayish,  smooth 
glossy  color,  glucose,  to  make  the  gypsum  adhere  to  the  tea,  Prussian  blue, 
Dutch  pink,  soapstone,  graphite,  rice  starch,  and  foreign  leaves.  Kaolin,  or 
porcelain  clay,  is  shipped  in  quantities  from  the  United  States  to  China,  which 
the  Chinese  buy  to  mix  with  tea.  Japan  tea  is  largely  made  up  of  leaves  other 
than  from  the  tea  shrub.  These  consist  principally  of  wisteria,  willow,  a 
species  of  ash,  and  other  species  of  shrubs. 

Much  of  the  tea  is  colored  after  it  leaves  China  and  Japan.  If  a cargo  of 
tea  is  damaged  on  the  voyage,  or  if  it  lacks  color,  it  is  doctored  in  Europe  or 
America  to  suit  the  market.  A merchant  in  an  eastern  city,  a very  large 
dealer,  makes  a business  of  buying  damaged  or  inferior  teas.  He  buys  them 
at  almost  nothing,  doctors  and  sends  them  off  to  the  country  and  sells  them 
from  thirty  to  fifty  cents  a pound.  He  was  never  known  to  buy  any  but  rejected 
or  inferior  teas,  and  has  accumulated  a fortune  as  a tea  doctor. 

In  China  no  tea  grounds  are  thrown  away.  They  are  re-dried,  mixed  with 
new  tea  or  colored.  Much  of  the  green  is  made  from  exhausted  leaves,  and 
the  only  strength  it  has,  is  derived  from  the  chemicals  that  give  it  pungency 
and  color,  and  the  old  or  young  ladies  who  color  their  ribbons  with  green  tea 
leaves  may  be  assured  that  it  is  not  the  tea,  but  the  drugs  in  it,  that  does  the 
coloring.  It  is  not  only  in  China  that  exhausted  leaves  or  those  that  have 
been  used  are  reclaimed  for  further  use.  A gentleman  called  on  an  acquaint- 
ance of  his,  an  engineer  in  a large  tea  house  in  an  eastern  city.  While  con- 
versing in  the  engine-room,  a two-horse  wagon,  filled  with  barrels  of  tea 
grounds,  drove  up  to  the  alley  door.  On  asking  what  they  were  going  to  do 
with  that  stuff,  the  engineer  replied  : Oh,  we  will  send  it  up-stairs,  heat  it, 

roll  it,  dry  it  and  mix  it  with  some  new  tea,  and  send  it  off  to  the  country  for 
fifty  cents.”  On  further  inquiry  it  appeared  that  the  company  had  a contract 
with  the  leading  hotels  for  all  their  tea  grounds,  and  sent  its  wagons  round 
daily  to  gather  them  in. 


•7 


At  the  special  request  of  an  India  tea  planter,  1 once  took  a number  of 
samples  of  his  teas  to  New  York.  A })rominent  tea  broker  invited  a number 
of  his  friends,  all  tea  brokers  and  importers.  After  testing,  all  declared  that 
it  was  the  finest  lot  of  teas  they  had  ever  seen,  but  unanimously  agreed  that 
they  were  too  good  for  the  American  market,  as  the  Americans  wanted 
cheap  tea. 

It  is  a world-wide  fact  that  most  of  the  inferior,  refuse  teas,  such  as  will  sell 
nowhere  else,  are  dumped  into  the  American  market,  and  the  great  Amer- 
ican people,  so  ‘‘  cute”  in  most  things,  and  with  a reputation  for  driving  sharp 
bargains,  think  they  are  very  shrewd  and  do  a big  stroke  of  business  when 
they  get  cheap  teas.  They  might  as  well  buy  tough  or  damaged  meat  of  a 
butcher,  at  a few  cents  a pound,  and  try  to  delude  themselves  that  they  had 
got  the  best  meat,  as  to  think  they  are  getting  pure,  fine  tea  when  they  buy  it 
cheap.  It  is  well  known  by  all  Oriental  tea  shippers  that  America  is  the 
poorest  market  of  the  world  for  the  finest  and  best  teas,  so  these  are  shipped 
to  Europe  and  Russia,  the  latter  being  the  best  market  for  them. 

The  Rev.  Wm.  Speer,  U.D.,  a missionary  of  the  American  Presbyterian 
Board  in  China,  writes:  The  green  tea  obtains  its  complexion  in  most  of 

what  is  exported,  from  the  presence  of  coloring  matter.  By  some  of  those 
perverse  tastes  which  obtain  among  us,  our  early  tea  purchasers  betrayed  a 
strange  predilection  for  a certain  color.  ‘ Foreigners,’  said  the  Chinese,  ‘ like 
their  tea  uniform  and  pretty,’  so  they  poison  the  herb  to  gratify  the  ridiculous 
tastes  of  England  and  America  for  bright  green,  just  as  many  of  our  pickle 
makers  poison  their  pickles.  They  throw  in  a blue  substance  commonly 
known  as  Prussian  blue  or  prussiate  of  iron  (cyanide  of  potassium  and  iron), 
and  they  mix  with  it  a quantity  of  gypsum.  They  never  think  of  drinking 
this  tea  themselves,  but  the  more  gypsum  and  blue  they  can  communicate  to 
the  tea,  the  higher  becomes  its  value  in  the  eyes  of  their  best  customers,  and 
the  dyeing  process  goes  on  in  China  to  an  alarming  extent.  It  is  calculated 
that  in  every  hundred  pounds  of  the  cheaper  green  tea  consumed  by  our  peo- 
ple, more  than  half  a pound  ot  coloring  matter  is  contained.” 

The  “Cyclopedia  Brittanica”  says:  “The  green  tea  sent  out  of  China  is 
almost  invariably  laced  or  glazed  with  artificial  coloring  matter.” 


i8 


‘‘Johnson’s  Cyclopedia  “ The  restoration  of  a poor  grade  of  tea  and  the 
conversion  from  black  to  green  (or  vice  versa)  are  in  constant  practice  in 
England  and  the  United  States,  and  have  given  rise  to  a special  branch  ot 
industry.” 

In  reclaiming  black  tea  but  little  coloring  matter  is  required,  and  that  not 
of  a poisonous  nature.  Exhausted  leaves  or  tea  grounds  can  be  easily  redried 
and  rolled,  and  if  a small  quantity  of  new  tea  is  mixed  with  them  they  can  be 
easily  passed  olf  as  good,  cheap  black  tea.  Damaged  black  teas  can  be 
moistened  or  washed,  heated,  re-rolled,  and,  if  off  color,  be  faced  with  some 
licorice,  burnt  sugar  water,  catechu,  graphite,  or  other  substances.  There  can 
be  this  satisfaction  to  the  drinker  ot  cheap  black  tea,  that  it  he  has  been 
deceived  in  the  quality  and  cheated  in  the  purchase,  he  is  not  liable  to  be 
poisoned,  as  in  drinking  cheap  green  tea.  It  is  best  always  to  get  all  the 
comfort  we  can  out  of  our  mistortunes. 

THE  TEA  TRADE. 

On  this  the  London  Standard  says:  “ If  the  tea  trade  is  ceasing  to  be  as 
profitable  as  it  used  to  be,  the  tea  drinker  is  also  well  aware  that  the  quality 
ot  the  stuff  sold  is  no  longer  what  it  was.  Japan,  India  and  Ceylon  send  us 
very  sound  teas,  though  the  English  palate  has  still  to  be  fully  educated  to  a 
liking  for  these  brands.  China,  which  at  one  time  had  a monopoly  of  the 
supply,  is  falling  off.  It  has  still  rare  samples  for  those  who  can  pay  for  them. 
But  few  buyers  being  at  hand,  the  importers  naturally  prefer  to  minister  to 
the  coarser  tastes  of  the  less  opulent  public.  Accordingly,  every  year  seems 
to  bring  cheaper  and  cheaper  and  worse  and  worse  teas  into  England.  Every- 
body wants  something  that  costs  little,  and  after  a course  of  cheap  teas  the 
buyer  loses  the  appetite  for  good  ones.  He  is  even  unable  to  distinguish  a first- 
class  from  an  inferior  article.  For  fifty  men  who  can  talk  wine  there  is  not  one 
woman  who  has  an  educated  taste  for  tea.  A well-to-do  citizen  would  scorn 
to  ask  his  guests  to  drink  a bottle  of  the  acrid  vintage  which  is  associated  with 
the  Premier’s  name,  and  will  instantly  send  from  the  table  a bottle  of  corked 
wine;  yet  that  same  host  will  himself  drink  and  offer  to  his  friends  tea  which 
a coolie  in  Canton  or  Yokohoma  would  toss  into  the  street.  The  housewife 
who  considers  three  shillin^rs  and  ‘;ixDenre  (qo  cents)  a sufficient  price  for  the 


best  of  tea  would  be  astonished  to  hear  cf  Japanese  growths  worth  ^3  and  ^4, 
or  to  be  told  that  in  Russia,  opulent  families  rarely  drink  anything  under  ten 
or  twelve  shillings  ($2.50  or  $3.00).  Even  now  plenty  of  the  best  India  teas 
bring  at  auction  as  much  as  three  shillings  and  sixpence  (90  cents)  to  four 
shillings  per  pound  wholesale,  though  these  fine  brands,  like  the  best  qualities 
of  China  teas,  are  usually  disposed  of  privately.  Of  the  70,000,000  pounds 
of  India  tea  sold  every  year  in  England  fully  40,000,000  pounds  are  of  a 
higher  quality  than  anything  received  from  China,  but  people  prefer  the 
poorer  sorts  simply  because  they  are  supposed  to  be  cheaper.  What  is  worse, 
the  Chinese,  finding  that  the  rage  among  the  western  barbarians  is  all  for 
cheapness,  minister  to  our  deteriorated  taste  hy  sending  us  worse  qualities 
than  they  used  to  do,  or  reserve  the  best  for  themselves  or  for  the  Russians, 
who  not  only  know  what  is  good,  but  are  ready  to  back  their  opinions  with 
their  purses.  A little  more  extravagance  in  this  direction  would  be  excusable. 
Economy  in  tea  drinking  is  wastefulness.” 

PACKING  AND  SHIPPING  OF  TEA. 

Most  of  the  tea  from  China,  Japan,  and  considerable  from  India,  is  put  up 
in  the  flimsiest  kind  of  chests,  scarcely  holding  together  till  they  reach  the 
market.  On  this  account  all  the  genuine,  natural  flavor  of  the  tea  is  lost,  and 
besides,  tea  being  a most  sensitive  absorbent,  absorbs  very  quickly  the  effluvia 
or  fragrance  of  everything  near  it.  Once,  on  leaving  a plantation,  my  friend, 
the  manager,  presented  me  with  a small  box  of  very  fine  tea  for  use  on  my 
journey.  The  box  was  opened  and  kept  in  a trunk  with  other  articles. 
Reaching  home  and  leaving  the  trunk  unopened  for  a few  days,  I then  found 
the  tea  had  a very  peculiar  fragrance  and  flavor  that  I had  not  observed  in  it 
at  first.  At  last  1 discovered  the  cause.  My  tea  had  borrowed  or  stolen  its 
fragrance  from  some  highly  scented  soap  kept  in  a package  in  the  same 
trunk. 

The  hold  of  a ship  is  a kind  of  chemical  laboratory  in  which  are  com- 
pounded more  smells  than  were  ever  heard  of  in  Cologne.  Place  the  broken 
and  open  chests  of  tea  along  with  hides,  bilge  water,  rusty  iron,  tobacco, 
gums,  resins,  jute,  a heterogeneous  mass  of  essences  and  smells  in  a close 
air-tight  oven  or  retort,  which  the  hold  of  a vessel  becomes  as  it  passes 


20 


through  the  tropics,  and — well,  such  tea  needs  a doctor  before  it  can  go  into 
market. 

Tea  should  not  be  left  open  near  other  substances,  as  onions,  kerosene  oil, 
codfish,  spices,  unless  the  grocer  or  housekeeper  wishes  to  furnish  a kind  of 
Irish  stew  broth  instead  of  tea.  It  all  depends  on  what  is  wanted.  If  it  is 
real  tea  that  is  desired,  then  buy  that  kind,  preserve  it  carefully  and  make  it 
properly. 

It  is  absurd  to  say  that  tea  cannot  be  packed  so  as  to  retain  'all  its  original 
flavor,  and  be  absolutely  free  from  that  of  other  substances. 

If  Mr.  Armour  and  others  can  put  up  meat  in  air-tight  cans  to  remain  good 
for  years  in  the  tropics,  why  cannot  such  an  article  as  tea  be  kept  in  the  same 
manner?  If  tea  is  properly  packed  it  can  be  sent  by  caravan  or  steamer, 
overland  or  underland,  or  be  towed  through  the  sea,  for  that  matter,  and  be 
just  as  pure  and  fragrant  as  the  day  it  was  put  up. 

Some  years  ago  1 adopted  the  following  method,  and  the  results  have  been 
so  satisfactory  that  1 have  never  thought  of  changing  it.  The  tea  is  first 
packed  in  lead,  soldered  up  air-tight  in  ten-pound  packages.  Each  lead 
package  is  enclosed  in  a stout  wooden  box.  After  this  box  is  nailed  up 
paper  is  pasted  all  round  it.  The  package  is  now  doubly  air-tight.  Four 
of  these  ten-pound  boxes  are  then  put  in  a very  tight  wood  box,  which  is 
strongly  nailed.  This  outer  box  is  covered  with  strong  hemp  cloth,  and  this 
is  covered  all  over  with  tar.  i,ooo  pounds  of  tea  when  packed  weighs 
2,250  pounds,  so  that  the  packing  alone  weighs  1,250  pounds,  or  250  pounds 
more  than  the  tea  itself.  These  packages  are  so  well  made  and  secured 
that  they  might  be  thrown  into  water  and  left  for  months,  or  be  taken  on 
a voyage  of  years  and  the  tea  be  as  pure,  dry  and  fragrant  as  when  it  was 
packed  on  the  plantation.  1 might  say  that  a European  is  manager  of  the 
plantation  and  has  the  leaf  picked  for  me  that  1 prefer,  and  follows  implicitly 
my  directions  in  regard  to  the  packing. 

It  is  the  fashion  among  some  to  talk  of  ‘‘  new-crop  tea,”  and  “ this  year’s 
picking,”  but  those  who  really  understand  what  good  tea  is,  know  that  it 
improves  with  age,  as  wine  becomes  mellow  with  years,  but  both  tea  and  wine 
must  be  hermetically  preserved. 


21 


AN  ORIENTAL  FIVE  O’CLOCK  TEA. 

Professor  Edmund  S.  Morse,  in ‘‘Japanese  Homes  and  Their  Surround- 
ings,” gives  a careful  description  of  many  varieties  of  tea  houses  in  Japan, 
and  a brief  summary  of  the  tea  ceremonies.  He  says: 

“ A volume  might  be  filled  with  a description  of  the  various  forms  of  build- 
ings connected  with  tea  observances,  and,  indeed,  another  might  be  filled  with 
the  minor  details  associated  with  their  different  schools.  In  brief,  the  party 
comes  about  by  the  host  inviting  a company  of  four  to  attend  the  tea  cer- 
emony, and  in  their  presence  making  the  tea  in  a bowl,  after  prescribed 
forms,  and  offering  it  to  the  guests.  To  be  more  explicit  as  to  the  mode  of 
conducting  this  ceremony,  the  tea  is  first  prepared  by  grinding  it  to  a fine, 
almost  impalpable  powder.  This  may  be  done  by  a servant  before  the  assem- 
blage of  guests,  or  maybe  ordered  ground  from  a tea  shop;  indeed,  the  host 
may  grind  it  himself. 

This  material,  always  freshly  ground  for  each  party,  is  usually  put  in  a 
little  earthen  jar  having  an  ivory  cover,  the  well-known  cha-ire  of  the  col- 
lector. Lacquer  boxes  may  also  be  used  for  this  purpose.  The  principal  uten- 
sils used  in  the  ceremony  consist  of  a furo  or  fire-pot,  made  of  pottery,  or 
made  of  a depression  in  the  floor,  partially  filled  with  ashes,  in  which  charcoal 
may  be  placed;  an  iron  kettle  to  boil  the  water,  a bamboo  dipper  of  the  most 
delicate  construction,  to  dip  out  the  water;  a wide-mouthed  jar  from  which 
to  replenish  the  water  in  the  kettle;  a bamboo  spoon  to  dip  out  the  powdered 
tea;  a bamboo  stirrer  not  unlike  certain  forms  of  egg-beaters,  by  which  the  tea 
is  briskly  stirred  after  the  hot  water  has  been  added;  a square  silk  cloth  with 
which  to  wipe  the  jar  and  spoon  properly:  a little  rest  for  the  tea-kettle  cover 
made  of  pottery  or  bronze  or  section  of  bamboo  ; a shallow  vessel  in  which 
the  rinsings  of  the  tea  bowl  are  poured  after  washing;  a brush,  consisting  of 
three  feathers  of  the  eagle  or  some  other  large  bird,  to  dust  the  edge  of  the 
fire  vessel,  and,  finally,  a shallow  basket  in  which  is  not  only  charcoal  to 
replenish  the  fire,  but  a pair  of  metal  rods  or  hibashi,  to  handle  the  coal;  two 
interrupted  rings  by  which  the  kettle  is  lifted  off  the  fire;  a circular  mat  upon 
which  the  kettle  is  placed  and  a small  box  containing  incense  or  bits  of  wood 
that  give  out  a peculiar  fragrance  when  burned.  With  the  exception  of  the 
fire  vessel  and  iron  kettle,  all  these  vessels  have  to  be  brought  in  by  the  host 


2 


with  great  formality  and  in  a certain  sequence,  and  placed  with  great  preci- 
sion upon  the  mats  after  the  prescribed  rules  of  certain  schools.  In  the  mak- 
ing of  tea  the  utensils  are  used  in  a most  exact  and  formal  manner. 

To  watch  the  making  of  the  tea,  knowing  nothing  about  the  ceremony, 
seems  as  grotesque  a performance  as  one  can  well  imagine.  Many  of  the 
forms  connected  with  it  seem  uselessly  absurd,  and  yet,  having  taken  many 
lessons  in  the  art  of  tea  making,  I found  that,  without  exception,  it  was  nat- 
ural and  easy,  and  the  guests  assembled  on  such  occasions,  though  at  first  sight 
appearing  stiff,  are  always  perfectly  at  their  ease. 

“ The  proper  placing  of  the  utensils  and  the  sequence  in  handling  them  and 
making  the  tea,  are  all  natural  and  easy  movements,  as  I have  said.  The 
light  wiping  of  the  tea  jar  and  the  washing  of  the  bowl,  and  its  wiping  with  so 
many  peripheral  jerks;  the  dropping  of  the  stirrer  against  the  side  of  the  bowl 
with  a click  in  rinsing,  and  a few  of  the  other  usual  movements  are  certainly 
grotesquely  formal  enough,  but  I question  whether  the  etiquette  of  a ceremo- 
nious dinner  party  at  home,  with  the  decorum  observed  in  the  proper  use  of 
each  utensil  does  not  strike  a Japanese  as  equally  odd  and  incomprehensible, 
when  experienced  by  him  for  the  first  time.  Many  books  are  devoted  to  the 
exposition  of  different  schools  of  tea  ceremonies,  illustrated  with  diagrams, 
showing  the  various  ways  of  placing  the  utensils,  plans  of  the  tea  rooms,  and 
all  the  details  involved  in  the  observances.” 

Professor  Morse  gives  six  illustrations  showing  different  styles  of  tea  rooms. 

ANALYSIS  OF  TEA. 

There  are  four  principal  ingredients  in  tea.  First,  an  aromatic,  volatile  oil 
which  gives  the  tea  its  odor  or  fragrance,  which  though  not  observed  in  the 
fresh  leaves  is  developed  in  the  curing  or  firing.  This  oil  is  in  such  minute 
proportions  that  there  is  only  a single  pound  of  it  in  a hundred  pounds  of  tea. 
Damaged  teas,  or  those  left  exposed  to  the  air,  leaves  that  are  boiled  or  left 
uncovered  in  the  pot,  lose  this  element  so  essential  to  a good,  fragrant  cup 
of  tea. 

Secondly,  a principle  called  theine,  similar  to  coffeine  in  coffee  or  cocoaine 
in  cocoa.  The  proportions  of  this  vary  in  different  kinds  of  teas,  ranging  from 
two  to  six  per  cent. 


23 


Thirdly,  tannin,  which  gives  tea  its  bitter,  astringent  taste.  There  is  about 
a third  more  tannin  in  green  tea  than  in  black. 

Fourthly,  a vegetable  substance  called  gluten,  the  same  as  that  which  gives 
grain  its  nutritive  qualities.  Yoiiman's  Household  Science  says;  “ But  the  leaves 
contain  another  constituent,  viz.:  gluten,  which  not  being  dissolved  by  hot 
water  is  usually  lost  with  the  dregs  and  grounds.  The  proportion  of  this  is 
stated  to  be  as  high  as  25  per  cent.,  so  that  the  leaves  by  exhaustion  or  steep- 
ing are  still  highly  nutritious.  In  some  countries  it  is  customary  to  eat  them.” 
In  keeping  tea  and  in  making  it,  great  care  should  be  taken  to  preserve  all 
these  elements  in  the  same  proportion  that  nature  has  provided  them. 

TEA  MAKING. 

Many  or  most  people  do  not  knowhow,  or  are  too  careless  and  indifferent,  to 
make  tea  properly.  Buckle  was  a most  fastidious  tea  drinker.  He  declared 
that  no  woman  could  make  tea  until  he  taught  her,  and  insisted  that  the  cups 
and  even  the  spoons  should  be  warmed.  Those  who  have  resided  in  India 
and  enjoyed  its  delicious  tea  say,  after  visiting  in  the  United  States,  that  they 
hardly  ever  got  a cup  of  tea  that  they  cared  to  drink.  Even  the  best  tea  can 
be  spoiled  in  the  making,  as  the  best  ot  flour  can  be  turned  into  poor  bread, 
and  the  best  potato  or  steak  be  ruined  by  the  cooking. 

HOW  TO  SPOIL  TEA. 

If  you  want  to  spoil  your  good  tea  this  is  the  way  to  do  it.  Take  water 
that  has  been  standing  in  an  old  ill-flavored  bucket  for  several  hours.  Pour 
this  into  an  old  tea  kettle  with  its  sides  covered  with  lime.  Place  the  kettle 
over  a slow  fire  and  let  it  boil  for  an  hour  or  more  until  the  life  has  all  gone 
out  of  it,  then  put  it  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  to  simmer  and  become  cold 
until  you  wish  to  make  tea.  Put  the  tea  leaves  into  an  old  rusty,  musty,  cold 
teapot  and  pour  on  the  water  that  is  nearly  cold.  Place  the  pot  on  the  table 
without  a cover,  while  you  put  the  food  on  the  table  and  call  the  folks.  After 
awhile  pour  out  into  thick,  cold  teacups,  add  cold  milk  and  sugar,  and  lastly 
put  in  the  cold  spoons.  You  then  have  something — not  for  a heathen  Chinee 
or  Hindu,  for  they  would  not  drink  such  a mess— but  for  careless  Americans, 


24 


who  do  not  know  any  better  or  care  little  what  they  drink,  only  that  it  is 
cheap,  wet  and  warm. 

HOW  TO  MAKE  TEA. 

If  you  really  want  a good  ctip  of  tea  try  this  method.  First,  get  real,  gen- 
uine black  tea — India  is  the  best — keep  it  air-tight,  in  close-fitting  stoppered 
glass  jars,  if  possible.  Just  before  you  wish  your  tea  make  a brisk  fire,  get 
fresh  water  directly  from  the  spring,  well  or  hydrant.  Pour  it  into  a clean 
kettle  and  boil  it  quickly.  Scald  your  earthen  tea  pot  and  place  it  empty  on 
the  back  part  of  the  stove  a tew  minutes,  to  drive  out  all  the  stale  vapor.  Put 
into  the  teapot  a teaspoonful  of  leaves  to  a half  pint  of  water  if  you  wish 
only  a moderate  strength.  Be  sure  that  the  water  is  boiling,  not  that  steam 
comes  out  of  the  spout — a common  delusion — but  that  bubbles,  “ cat’s  eyes,” 
are  in  the  water.  Just  when  the  water  boils,  not  one  minute  before  or  a min- 
ute after,  so  as  to  catch  the  very  life  of  the  water,  pour  it  on  to  the  tea,  and 
over  the  teapot  on  the  table  place  the  cosy  to  keep  in  all  the  heat  and  fra- 
grance. Have  a bowl  of  hot  water  on  the  tea  tray.  Take  each  thin  teacup  by 
the  handle  and  dip  it  into  the  hot  water.  Also  dip  the  spoons  into  the  bowl. 
Shake  the  teapot  a little  to  bring  the  water  out  of  the  spout,  and  to  equalize 
the  infusion,  or  use  a wire  tea  stirrer.  Do  all  this  as  quickly  as  you  can  and 
pour  the  tea.  Then  put  in  the  sugar  and  good  cream.  Drink  heartily  and 
with  pleasure,”  for  this  is  tea.  If  this  does  not  please  you,  then  be  a tea- 
totaler. 

THE  BHOTEA  OR  TIBETAN  METHOD. 

When  traveling  in  the  Himalayas,  I have  often  met  parties  of  Bhoteas — 
the  name  Tibet  is  not  known  among  them — with  their  caravans  of  yuks, 
Bhotea  cattle,  sheep  and  goats  on  which  were  carried  various  kinds  of  mer- 
chandise from  Bhot  to  the  plains  of  India.  There  was  always  in  each  party 
a man  or  woman  carrying  a wooden  covered  bucket  or  churn  shaped  vessel 
in  which  was  a boiled  mixture  of  tea  leaves,  butter  and  water ; that  had 
been  prepared  the  night  previous  or  in  the  morning  before  starting.  When 
any  one  was  hungry  a visit  was  made  to  the  bucket  for  a lunch.  They  did 
not  seem  to  need  any  other  food  during  the  day.  ‘‘For  a breakfast  of  ten 
persons  in  Tibet,  this,”  says  Moorcroft,  “would  be  the  preparation  : About  one 


25 


ounce  ot  brick  tea,  and  a like  quantity  of  soda,  are  boiled  in  a quart  of  water 
for  one  hour,  or  until  the  leaves  of  the  tea  are  sufficiently  steeped.  It  is 
then  strained  and  mixed  with  ten  quarts  of  boiling  water,  in  which  an  ounce 
and  a half  of  fossil  salt  has  been  previously  dissolved.  The  whole  is  then  put 
into  a narrow  cylindrical  churn,  along  with  the  butter,  and  well  stirred 
with  a churning  stick,  till  it  becomes  a smooth,  oily,  and  brown  liquid 
the  color  and  consistence  of  chocolate,  from  which  it  is  transferred  to  a teapot 
for  immediate  use.” 

Mr.  Manning  describes  another  methad  : “ A small  quantity  of  flour  is 

put  into  an  iron  vessel  over  a slow  fire  and  gradually  parched;  to  which 
is  added  a small  portion  of  butter.  These  two  ingredients  are  then  stirred 
and  formed  into  a paste;  to  which  is  added  at  intervals  a portion  of  the 
strong  decoction  of  tea,  the  whole  being  constantly  stirred  and  well  mixed, 
and  blended  together.  It  is  then  diluted  with  milk  or  water  and  churned. 
I also  understood  that  it  is  poured  from  one  vessel  into  another  backwards 
and  forwards  several  times.  It  obviously  thus  forms  not  merely  a refreshing 
beverage,  but  a somewhat  nutritious  meal.” 

Mr.  Manning  found  this  mixture  so  agreeable  to  his  taste,  that  he  fre- 
quently indulged  in  its  use  for  breakfast  on  his  return  to  England. 

In  Tibet,  Moorcroft  informs  us  that  all  classes  of  Tibetans  eat  three  meals 
a day.  The  first  consists  of  tea;  the  second  of  tea,  or  of  meal  porridge,  if 
tea  cannot  be  afforded;  the  third  ot  meat,  rice,  vegetables  and  bread  by  the 
upper,  and  soup  and  meat  by  the  lower  classes.  At  breakfast  each  person 
drinks  about  five  or  ten  cups  of  tea,  each  cup  containing  about  one-third  of  a 
pint,  and  when  the  last  is  half  finished,  he  mixes  with  the  remainder  as  much 
barley  meal  as  makes  a paste  with  it,  which  he  eats.  At  the  midday  meal, 
those  who  can  afford  tea,  take  it  again  with  the  wheaten  cakes,  accompanied 
with  a paste  of  wheat  flour,  butter  and  sugar,  served  hot.  Captain  Turner 
says,  “ that  habit  not  only  rendered  this  camp  custom  agreeable  to  our  tastes, 
but  experience  most  fully  proved  that  warm  liquids  at  all  hours,  contribute  to 
alleviate  the  sensation  of  fatigue.  I was  never  more  disposed  to  praise  the 
comfortable  practice  of  the  country,  having  constantly  observed  that  the  first 
object  of  attention  with  every  man,  at  the  end  of  a long  journey,  is  to  pro- 
cure for  himself  a dish  of  hot  tea.” 


26 


PECULIARITIES  OF  TEAS. 

There  is  a great  difference  in  the  teas  of  China,  Japan  and  India.  The 
two  former  are  more  pungent,  somewhat  bitter  and  more  quickly  affect 
the  nervous  system,  while  that  of  India  is  richer  in  color,  milder,  and  has 
what  some  call  an  herby,  or  a flavor  like  that  of  new  mown  hay.  Some 
who  have  used  China  and  Japan  tea,  at  first,  do  not  like  that  of  India,  but 
soon  become  accustomed  to  it  so  as  to  prefer  it  above  all  others. 

SOME  SUGGESTIONS. 

If* tea  be  ground  like  coffee  just  before  steeping,  it  will  yield  much  more 
strength  and  a finer  flavor,  for  the  reason  that  all  the  elements  in  the  tea 
are  dissolved  at  once,  and  the  infusion  is  composed  of  the  proper  proportion 
of  each  ingredient.  When  ground,  tea  is  ready  as  soon  as  the  boiling  water 
is  poured  upon  it. 

When  the  leaves  are  not  ground  a lump  of  sugar  in  the  teapot  will  hasten 
the  infusion. 

A ‘‘  cosey”  is  a wadded  cover  made  to  fit  the  tea  pot.  It  is  generally  shaped 
m two  half-circles,  stitched  around,  lined  and  corded.  It  can  be  made  very 
ornamental  by  braiding  or  crewel  work. 

Tea  ‘‘  a la  Russe  ” is  much  liked  by  some  people.  It  is  to  place  a piece  of 
peeled,  well  sugared  lemon  at  the  bottom  of  each  cup  before  pouring  over  it 
the  tea,  hot  and  strong.  Iced  tea  can  be  served  in  the  same  way. 

The  w'ealthy  Japanese  continue  the  ancient  mode  of  grinding  the  leaves  to 
powder;  and  after  infusion  in  a cup  it  is  whipped  with  a split  bamboo  or 
denticulated  instrument  until  it  creams,  when  they  drink  both  the  infusion 
and  powder,  as  coffee  is  used  in  many  parts  of  Asia. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  of  the  advantage  derived  from  grinding  tea,  and 
any  one  interested  in  having  a good  cup,  should  try  the  experiment. 

Cream  is  essential  in  making  good  tea.  The  Mongols  use  rich  milk,  the 
Tibetans  butter,  which  takes  the  place  of  cream.  In  some  parts  of  China, 
the  people  do  not  use  milk  or  cream,  for  the  reason  they  cannot  get  it. 

Johnson’s  Chemistry  of  Common  Life,”  suggests  that  “ a pinch  of  soda 
be  put  into  the  w'ater  along  with  the  tea  to  dissolve  the  gluten  and  make  the 
beverage  more  nutritious.” 


27 


The  Tibetans  use  soda,  probably  without  knowing  why,  only  that  their 
forefathers  did  so.  I have  found  many  customs  prevalent  among  what  are 
termed  uncivilized  people,  for  which  they  can  give  no  scientific  reason,  that 
are  most  essential  and  beneficial. 

Tea  contains  more  nitrogen  than  any  other  vegetable  substance  yet  exam- 
ined, which  will  account  for  its  being  so  nutritious. 

Mankind  everywhere  craves  stimulating  food  and  drink.  Many  an  appetite 
would  be  satisfied  with  a good,  strong,  nourishing  cup  of  tea  instead  of  alco- 
holic beverages,  if  the  tea  was  only  provided. 

Good  pure  water  is  very  essential,  that  from  a spring  the  best.  A bon 
vivant  in  Chicago  says  he  always  uses  Waukesha  water  with  the  best  results. 
The  color  of  a good  ‘Giquor”  in  a china  cup  is  that  of  a bright,  new,  copper 
cent.  Finally,  get  pure,  good  black  tea,  have  everything  in  order,  make 
in  a hurry,  and  drink  “ right  away.” 


UNIVERStTY  OF  ILLINOIS-URBANA 


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